Home Inspection

A long time ago buying a house was an act of faith. Purchasers rambled through a property, asked a few questions, flicked on the stove, and then bought the place ''as is." But times have changed, and today more and more people have come to understand that a house is a complex package of pipes, wires, boards, shingles, bricks, and appliances-each ready to rust, rot, or break the moment a buyer moves in.

Physical condition is a worry for every buyer. If the basement leaks and the prospective buyer knows about it, then the house can be judged accordingly. But what happens if the buyer doesn't know about the leaky basement? It is the lack of information rather than the leak itself that is a major cause of buyer anxiety.

The burden of assuring property condition has traditionally fallen to the purchaser, except when the seller knows of a "substantial" defect and deliberately hides the problem. Yet one has to wonder, what is "substantial"? Is a leaking roof a substantial problem? Suppose the leak amounts to three ounces of water per year. Is that substantial? What about one ounce? What if the seller is a roofer? Will his definition of "substantial" vary from that of a buyer who is an accountant or sales-person?

The idea of an inspection is not to uncover every minor flaw and problem with a house. No house-including the most expensive property in town-is perfect. Every home has some flaw, some damage, some defect somewhere. What a buyer really wants to know is: What needs to be repaired or replaced? How much will it cost? What steps can be taken to make the house run more efficiently? What repair bills can be expected in the next few years? Considering the defects and problems with a given property, should I make an offer requiring the seller to make certain repairs, or should I make a smaller offer or no offer?

Purchasers should informally inspect a property prior to making an offer.

For example, using a camera to take photos of the house may be helpful. If you have a picture showing the front screen door in good condition when you made your offer, but later the door is damaged at the time of settlement, the seller is responsible. But if the damage occurred before you offered to purchase the property, then it is merely a part of the package you bought.

What should buyers and inspectors look for in a home inspection? Here are the major items to check before making a purchase offer.

Foundation and footing:

• Is the home constructed on solid earth?
• Is the ground sloped away from the foundation?
• Are the footings below the frost line?
• Is there good floor drainage?
• Is there a working sump pump?
• Does the basement appear to be dry year round with no evidence of water problems?
• Is the sill plate firmly attached to the top of the foundation?
• Is there adequate ventilation in the basement or crawl space?
• Are the walls of the foundation free of major cracks, deterioration and settling?
• Is there adequate insulation on the interior or exterior foundation walls?

Framing:

• Is there adequate insulation and protection provided continuously between the house sill plate and foundation?
• Are the floor joints structurally sound and not subject to sagging, bowing or springiness?
• Are the floors quiet and solid when walked upon?
• Are the walls structurally sound?
• Are all load bearing beams structurally sound and not deteriorated by rot or, in the case of metal, evidence of excessive rust?
• Is there adequate bracing to restrain joists from twisting?
• Is there adequate insulation in the walls?
• Is there adequate insulation in the ceiling?
• Is there evidence of wall or ceiling mold or condensation?
• Are lintel loads over openings structurally sound?
• Are the roof lines straight with no evidence of sagging?
• Are roof rafters or trusses free of rot, termite, or fire damage?
• Are roof rafters or trusses properly spanned and spaced apart with no sagging or buckling?
• Does the attic have proper ventilation with no visible condensation problems?
• Are the collar ties and bracing in the roof adequately secured?
• Is the roof sheathing properly secured with no swelling or de-lamination?
• Is there any evidence of rot?

Electrical system:

• Is copper wiring used throughout?
• Does the house have a minimum 240-volt power supply?
• Is there a minimum of two 100+-amp. fuses in the main disconnect?
• Is the copper wiring minimum #14 gauge to carry 15 amps.?
• Is the service panel supplied with circuit breakers as opposed to fuses?
• Is there enough power for the normal appliances and the electrical components usually operated in a household?
• Are there enough separate circuits?
• Are the standard receptacles throughout the house three hole grounded outlets?
• Does the bathroom have a ground fault interrupt or safety receptacles to safeguard against accidental electrocution if contact is made with sink or other water?
• Are there sufficient enough receptacles in all rooms including the basement, garage, and attic?

Heating and cooling:

• Is the heating unit adequately sized to generate sufficient heat and distribute it to all areas of the home?
• Is the heating system economical?
• Is the heating system excessively noisy when in operation?
• Is the cooling unit adequately sized to cool all areas of the home efficiently?
• Is the cooling system excessively noisy when in operation?

Fireplace and chimney:

• Does the fireplace work properly with adequate draw?
• Is the chimney flue area at least one-twelfth the size of the fireplace opening?
• Is the fireplace properly constructed or installed?
• Has the chimney and fireplace been cleaned annually?

Wood stoves:

• Does the wood-stove have adequate clearance from combustible materials?
• Does the exhaust flue and chimney system have good connections?
• Is there excessive creosote deposit in the chimney?

Plumbing:

• Is the water supplied at a sufficiently high pressure?
• Is the interior piping composed of copper?
• Is there a main water shut off valve where the supply of water enters the house?
• Is the plumbing noisy when the water is engaged under pressure?
• Are all plumbing fixtures properly vented?
• If septic tank is used, has it been cleaned recently?
• Is the house free from natural gas odors?
• Do the toilets have a powerful enough flushing action?

Hot water heaters:

• Is the water heater less than five years old?
• Does the tank appear to be in good condition?
• When the overflow valve is engaged, does rusty water discontinue and become clear?
• Is the temperature dial turned to a moderate setting?

Exterior wall finishes:

• Does the wall finish require little maintenance?
• Is the wall finish in good condition?
• Have all joint seams been properly sealed with caulking or flashing?
• Does the wall finish have more than 25% life expectancy?
• Is any buckling or bowing evident in the material?
• Do painted areas show blistering or peeling?

Windows:

• Do all windows operate correctly?
• Do the windows show excessive water stains?
• Are the panes between the glazing free of condensation causing no discoloration?
• Are the window frames caulked properly outside?
• Are the windows at least double glazing?
• Is the double glazing factory sealed and designed to have no air infiltration or ex-filtration between the panes of glass?

Exterior doors:

• Are all exterior doors made of solid wood or insulated steel?
• Are all doors latched securely and weather-tight?
• Are all door frames properly caulked?

Roofs:

• Does the roof have at least ten years life expectancy before major repair or replacement?
• Does the roof appear to be waterproof with no loose, missing, or repaired shingles and no signs of inside water damage?
• Is all flashing properly installed and in good condition?

Private wells:

• Has the water been tested to determine suitability for drinking?
• Does the well have sufficient capacity at all times of the year?
• Does the water system provide adequate pressure?
• Does the water system have a safety shutoff valve?

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